Hair treatment compositions

ABSTRACT

Compositions for hair treatment comprising discrete droplets which contain both a functionalised silicone and a hydrocarbon oil, methods for preparing such compositions and their use for conditioning of hair.

BACKGROUND TO THE INVENTION

Shampoo compositions which provide a combination of cleansing andconditioning to the hair are known in the prior art. Such shampoocompositions typically comprise one or more surfactants for shampooingor cleansing purposes and one or more conditioning agents. The purposeof the conditioning agent is to make the hair easier to comb when wetand more manageable when dry, e.g. less static and fly-away. Typically,these conditioning agents are either water-insoluble oily materials orcationic materials.

Amongst the most popular conditioning agents used in shampoo productsare silicone polymers, present in the shampoo as emulsion droplets.Conditioning is achieved by the silicone being deposited onto the hairresulting in the formation of a film. Whilst the silicone film givesexcellent conditioning, for example wet comb properties, the repeateduse of compositions containing silicones can lead to a build-up ofsilicone and undesirable affects such as a heavy, oily feel to the hair.This can lead to the perception by some users that their hair is notclean.

A problem associated with use of cationic polymers and cationicsurfactants as conditioning agents is that the anionic surfactantscommonly employed in shampoo compositions as cleansing surfactants caninteract with the cationic conditioning agents resulting in poorerperformance of the conditioning agent and/or the cleansing surfactant.

Attempts to overcome this problem have been made by employing nonionic,amphoteric and/or cationic co-surfactants as cleansing agents, but thesesystems do not generally provide as high a level of cleansing or foamingas do surfactant systems comprising anionic surfactant.

Many consumers habitually apply triglycerides to their hair as part oftheir regular grooming habits. Coconut oil is frequently used as agrooming aid by such consumers. Silicones in hair treatment formulationsare not generally compatible with film formation on oiled hair toprovide conditioning benefits. There is a need for hair treatmentcompositions which can provide conditioning benefits to oiled hair.

Another class of conditioning agents used in hair treatment compositionsis non-silicone water-insoluble oily materials. Such oily materials havebeen used to a far lesser degree than silicone and cationic conditioningagents. One reason for this is the incompatibility of such materialswith hair treatment surfactants, especially anionic surfactants used inshampoos to provide good cleaning. Another reason is the inherentinstability of emulsions of these oily materials in aqueous-based hairtreatment compositions. This often results in a lack of homogeneity inthe hair treatment composition and/or inadequate shelf-life.

Accordingly, there is a need for hair treatment compositions containingreduced levels of silicone oily conditioning agents to prevent build-upyet which deliver both good conditioning performance, and which are alsostable in the hair treatment composition. There is also a need for hairtreatment compositions which are effective for conditioning the hair ofconsumers who regularly apply triglycerides to their hair. There is alsoa need for hair treatment compositions which deliver conditioningbenefits from a cleansing composition without making the users feel thattheir hair is not clean after use.

EP 0 742 64 discloses aqueous conditioning shampoos comprising anionicor amphoteric surfactant, cationic or nonionic conditioning agents, anda water miscible saccharide. Suitable conditioning agents includesilicones, resinous materials, waxy materials and oily materials.

WO 93/08787 discloses conditioning shampoos including anionicsurfactant, dispersed non-volatile nonionic silicone conditioning agent,a water-soluble cationic organic hair-conditioning polymer of specifiedcharge density and an organic, non-volatile, water-insoluble liquidselected from hydrocarbon oils, fatty esters and mixtures thereof.

U.S. Pat. No. 5,344,643 discloses shampoo compositions comprising ananionic surfactant, an oily, water-insoluble conditioning agent, acarboxyvinyl polymer suspending and stabilising agent for the oilyconditioning agent and a cationic conditioning agent.

FR 2788971 discloses a hair treatment composition containing an oil withat least one amine and one urethane group and a conditioner which may bepolyolefin, cationic or amphoteric polymers, cationic proteins and theirhydrolysates, silicones, mineral oils, ceramide-type compounds orcationic surfactants.

It has now found that by the use of discrete droplets containing bothmineral oil and functionalised silicone, pre-emulsified before itsaddition to the hair treatment composition, a composition can beprovided which supplies conditioning benefits to the hair of hair oilusers. Compositions according to the invention can also be beneficial inreducing the long-term build up of silicones on the hair. Compositionsaccording to the invention can also provide conditioning benefits from acleansing product with good stability.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

According to one aspect of the invention, there is provided acomposition for hair treatment comprising discrete dropletscharacterised in that the droplets, within the same droplet compriseboth;

-   -   (i) a functionalised silicone and,    -   (ii) a hydrocarbon oil.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

By “water-insoluble” is meant that a material is not soluble in water ata concentration of 0.5% by weight, based on weight of water, at 25° C.

Where values for viscosity are specified, these refer to kinematicviscosities measured using suitable apparatus at 25° C. A suitableapparatus is a capillary viscometer.

As used herein, the term “mixture droplet” is used to refer to thediscrete droplets comprising both hydrocarbon oil and functionalisedsilicone.

By discrete droplets, it is meant that whereas the main body of thecomposition is water-continuous, the droplets form a separate,discontinuous, non-aqueous phase.

It is essential to the invention that both hydrocarbon oil andfunctionalised silicone are present within common droplets. In otherwords, within a single droplet, both hydrocarbon oil and functionalisedsilicone must be present together. However, it is not essential to theinvention that every non-aqueous droplet within the composition has thisform, so long as an effective amount of the mixture droplets is presentin the composition.

In a preferred form of a composition according to the invention, thecomposition comprises at 0.25 to 0.5% by weight of the mixture droplets.

It is also preferred if the mixture droplets comprise at least 5% byweight of functional silicone and at least 5% by weight of hydrocarbonoil expressed as a percentage of the weight of the mixture droplets.

Functionalised Silicone

The functionalised silicone is present in the mixture droplets at alevel of at least 5 percent by weight, preferably at least 25 percent byweight, more preferably at least 40 percent by weight and mostpreferably at least 50% by weight based on the total weight of themixture droplets.

Suitably, the functionalised silicone has a kinematic viscosity of lessthan 1000 mm²s⁻¹, preferably less than 500 mm²s ⁻¹, more preferably lessthan 200 mm²s⁻¹ at 25° C.

Suitable functionalised silicones include, for example, amino-,carboxy-, betaine-, quaternary ammonium-, carbohydrate-, hydroxy- andalkoxy-substituted silicones.

Preferably, the functionalised silicone contains multiple substitutions.

By functionalised silicone is meant a polymer or oligomer with abackbone consisting essentially of polydialkylsiloxane monomers,preferably polydimethylsiloxane monomers, wherein the alkyl groups havebeen partially substituted by functional organic groups.

For the avoidance of doubt, as regards hydroxyl-substituted silicones, apolydimethylsiloxane merely having hydroxyl end groups (which have theCTFA designation dimethiconol) is not considered a functionalisedsilicone within the present invention. However, a polydimethylsiloxanehaving hydroxyl substitutions along the polymer chain is considered afunctionalised silicone.

Preferred functionalised silicones are amino-functionalised silicones.Suitable amino functionalised silicones are described in EP 455,185(Helene Curtis) and include trimethylsilylamodimethicone as depictedbelow: Si(CH₃)₃—O—[Si(CH₃)₂—O—_(x)—[Si(CH₃)(R—NH—R₁NH₂)—O—]_(y)—Si(CH₃)₃

-   -   wherein x+y is a number from about 50 to about 500 and wherein R        is an alkylene group having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms and R₁ is a        second alkylene group having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.        Preferably, the number x+y is in the range of from about 100 to        about 300.

As expressed here, the weight percent amine functionality is measured bytitrating a sample of the amino-functionalised silicone againstalcoholic hydrochloric acid to the bromocresol green end point. Theweight % amine is calculated using a molecular weight of 45(corresponding to CH₃—CH₂—NH₂).

Suitably, the weight percent amine functionality measured and calculatedin this way is from 0.3% to 8%, preferably from 0.5% to 4%.

An example of a commercially available amino-functionalised siliconeuseful in the silicone component of the composition of the invention isDC8220 available from Dow Corning, which has a viscosity of 150 mm²s⁻¹at 25° C. and a weight percent amine functionality of 2.0%.

Hydrocarbon Oil

The hydrocarbon oil is present in the mixture droplets at a level of atleast 5 percent by weight, preferably at least 15 percent by weight morepreferably at least 20 percent by weight and most preferably at least30% by weight based on the total weight of the mixture droplets.

Suitably, the hydrocarbon oil has a viscosity at 25° C. of less than 500mm²s⁻¹, preferably less than 300 mm²s⁻¹, more preferably less than 200mm²s⁻¹ and most preferably less than 50 mm²s⁻¹.

Hydrocarbon oils include cyclic hydrocarbons, straight chain aliphatichydrocarbons (saturated or unsaturated), and branched chain aliphatichydrocarbons (saturated or unsaturated). The hydrocarbon oils willpreferably contain from 12 to 60 carbon atoms. Also suitable arepolymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as C₂-C₆ alkenylmonomers. These polymers can be straight or branched chain polymers. Thestraight chain polymers will typically be relatively short in length,having a total number of carbon atoms as described above for straightchain hydrocarbons in general. The branched chain polymers can havesubstantially higher chain length.

Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbon oils include paraffin oil,mineral oil, saturated and unsaturated dodecane, saturated andunsaturated tridecane, saturated and unsaturated tetradecane, saturatedand unsaturated pentadecane, saturated and unsaturated hexadecane, andmixtures thereof. Branched-chain isomers of these compounds, as well asof higher chain length hydrocarbons, can also be used. Exemplarybranched-chain isomers are highly branched saturated or unsaturatedalkanes, such as the permethyl-substituted isomers, e.g., thepermethyl-substituted isomers of hexadecane and eicosane, such as 2, 2,4, 4, 6, 6, 8, 8-dimethyl-10-methylundecane and 2, 2, 4, 4, 6,6-dimethyl-8-methylnonane, sold by Permethyl Corporation. A furtherexample of a hydrocarbon polymer is polybutene, such as the copolymer ofisobutylene and butene. A commercially available material of this typeis L-14 polybutene from Amoco Chemical Co. (Chicago, Ill., U.S.A.).

Particularly preferred hydrocarbon oils are the various grades ofmineral oils. Mineral oils are clear oily liquids obtained frompetroleum oil, from which waxes have been removed, and the more volatilefractions removed by distillation. The fraction distilling between 250°C. to 300° C. is termed mineral oil, and it consists of a mixture ofhydrocarbons ranging from C₁₆H₃₄ to C₂₁H₄₄. Suitable commerciallyavailable materials of this type include Sirius M85 and Sirius M45,available from Silkolene (Trademark).

Mixture Droplets

In compositions according to the invention, the mixture droplets form aseparate, discontinuous phase from the continuous phase of the hairtreatment composition. Generally, the continuous phase of the hairtreatment composition will be water-continuous.

In order for the mixture droplets to remain stable as discrete dropletsover time, it is preferred if the functionalised silicone and thehydrocarbon oil are insoluble in the continuous phase of the hairtreatment composition.

In a preferred form of the invention, the continuous phase of the hairtreatment composition will be water-based and the hydrocarbon oil andfunctionalised silicone will be water-insoluble. In this case, themixture droplets will be dispersed in the composition as the oildroplets of an oil-in-water emulsion.

The mixture droplets may be liquid, semi-solid or solid in nature, solong as they are substantially uniformly dispersed in the fullyformulated product. The mixture droplets are preferably present aseither liquid or semi-solid droplets, more preferably as liquiddroplets.

The D_(3,2) average droplet size of the mixture droplets is preferablygreater than 0.05 micrometre, more preferably at least 0.5 micrometre,most preferably at least 1 micrometre. Additionally, the D_(3,2) averagedroplet size of the mixture droplets is no greater than 25 micrometres,preferably no greater than 20 micrometres, more preferably no greaterthan 15 micrometres. It should be noted that suitable droplet sizeranges include any maximum D_(3,2) average droplet size associated withany minimum D_(3,2) average droplet size. A preferred range is from 0.05to 25 micrometres, more preferably from 0.5 to 20 micrometres, mostpreferably from 1 to 15 micrometres.

Methods for measuring the D_(3,2) average droplet size are well known tothose skilled in the art, and may require dilution of the compositionprior to measurement. One suitable method is by means of a laser lightscattering technique, using a 2600D Particle Sizer from MalvernInstruments.

It is a highly preferred aspect of the invention that the mixturedroplets be in the form of the discontinuous phase of an aqueousoil-in-water emulsion which may itself be added to the hair treatmentcomposition during manufacture. Preferably, the aqueous emulsion ismechanically-formed. In such emulsions, it is preferable that theemulsion additionally includes at least one emulsifier in order tostabilise the emulsion.

Another aspect of the invention is a method for incorporating discretedroplets comprising both a functionalised silicone and a hydrocarbon oilin the same droplets, into a hair treatment composition, comprising thesteps of;

-   -   i) forming an intimate, non-aqueous blend comprising the        functionalised silicone and the hydrocarbon oil,    -   ii) preparing an aqueous emulsion comprising droplets comprising        both a functionalised silicone and a hydrocarbon oil in the same        droplets and    -   i) mixing said aqueous emulsion with the hair treatment        composition.

Suitable emulsifiers for use in the preparation of the aqueous emulsionare well known in the art and include anionic, cationic, zwitterionic,amphoteric and nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Examples ofanionic surfactants used as emulsifiers for the silicone particles arealkylarylsulphonates, e.g., sodium dodecylbenzene sulphonate, alkylsulphates e.g., sodium lauryl sulphate, alkyl ether sulphates, e.g.,sodium lauryl ether sulphate nEO, where n is from 1 to 20 alkylphenolether sulphates, e.g., octylphenol ether sulphate nEO where n is from 1to 20, and sulphosuccinates, e.g., sodium dioctylsulphosuccinate.

Examples of nonionic surfactants used as emulsifiers for the siliconeparticles are alkylphenol ethoxylates, e.g., nonylphenol ethoxylate nEO,where n is from 1 to 50 and alcohol ethoxylates, e.g., lauryl alcoholnEO, where n is from 1 to 50, ester ethoxylates, e.g., polyoxyethylenemonostearate where the number of oxyethylene units is from 1 to 30.

It is preferred if the emulsifier is blended into the oil phase prior tothe formation of the aqueous emulsion of the mixture droplets.

A preferred process for preparing aqueous emulsions of the mixturedroplets which can then be incorporated in the hair treatmentcompositions involves use of a high-shear mixer. Suitable mixers shouldbe capable of handling high viscosity liquids at low temperatures.Preferably, the mixer is a hollow cylinder or bowl-shaped and comprisesa centrally-mounted, rotatable shaft carrying thereon tools or bladeswhich rotate with the shaft.

Suitably, the clearance of the tips of the tools or blades from the wallof the mixer is relatively small, e.g. less than 20 mm, preferably lessthan 15 mm, more preferably less than 10 mm. The speed of rotation ofthe shaft will vary depending on the dimensions of the mixer but willtypically be in the region of 100-1200 rpm.

Preferably, the mixer is also capable of having the temperature ofmixing controlled, e.g. it comprises a jacket through which a heattransfer fluid can be circulated.

In order to obtain an intimate blend of the functionalised silicone andthe hydrocarbon oil in the mixture droplets, it is highly preferred thatboth components should be liquid at the temperature at which mixing andemulsification takes place.

Hair Treatment Compositions

Hair treatment compositions according to the invention may suitably takethe form of shampoos, conditioners, sprays, mousses or lotions.Preferred hair treatment composition forms are shampoos, conditionersand mousses.

Another aspect of the invention is the use of hair treatmentcompositions according to the invention for the conditioning of hair. Apreferred use of compositions according to the invention is as aconditioning shampoo.

Shampoo Compositions

A preferred hair treatment composition in accordance with the inventionis a conditioning shampoo composition. Such a shampoo composition willcomprise one or more cleansing surfactants which are cosmeticallyacceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair. Furthersurfactants may be present as an additional ingredient if sufficient forcleansing purposes is not provided by the emulsifier for the mixturedroplets. It is preferred that shampoo compositions according to theinvention comprise at least one further surfactant (in addition to thatused as emulsifying agent for the conditioning mixture) to provide acleansing benefit.

Suitable cleansing surfactants, which may be used singularly or incombination, are selected from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphotericand zwitterionic surfactants and mixtures thereof. The cleansingsurfactant may be the same surfactant as the emulsifier, or may bedifferent.

Shampoo compositions according to the invention will typically compriseone or more anionic cleansing surfactants that are cosmeticallyacceptable and suitable for topical application to the hair.

Examples of suitable anionic cleansing surfactants are the alkylsulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkanoylisethionates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, N-alkylsarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ethercarboxylates, and alpha-olefin sulphonates, especially their sodium,magnesium, ammonium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyland acyl groups generally contain from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and may beunsaturated. The alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl ether phosphates and alkylether carboxylates may contain from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide or propyleneoxide units per molecule.

Typical anionic cleansing surfactants for use in shampoo compositions ofthe invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium laurylsulphosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, sodium dodecylbenzenesulphonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulphonate, sodium cocoylisethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate.The most preferred anionic surfactants are sodium lauryl sulphate,sodium lauryl ether sulphate(n)EO, (where n ranges from 1 to 3),ammonium lauryl sulphate and ammonium lauryl ether sulphate(n)EO, (wheren ranges from 1 to 3).

Mixtures of any of the foregoing anionic cleansing surfactants may alsobe suitable.

The total amount of anionic cleansing surfactant in shampoo compositionsof the invention is generally from 5 to 30, preferably from 6 to 20,more preferably from 8 to 18 wt %.

The shampoo composition can optionally include co-surfactants, to helpimpart aesthetic, physical or cleansing properties to the composition.

A preferred example is an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, whichcan be included in an amount ranging from 0 to about 8, preferably from1 to 4 percent by weight of the composition.

Examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl amineoxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines(sultaines), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkylamphopropionates, alkylamphoglycinates, alkyl amidopropylhydroxysultaines, acyl taurates and acyl glutamates, wherein the alkyland acyl groups have from 8 to 19 carbon atoms. Typical amphoteric andzwitterionic surfactants for use in shampoos of the invention includelauryl amine oxide, cocodimethyl sulphopropyl betaine and preferablylauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium cocamphopropionate.

Another preferred example is a nonionic surfactant, which can beincluded in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 8, preferably from 1 to 5percent by weight of the composition.

For example, representative nonionic surfactants that can be included inshampoo compositions of the invention include condensation products ofaliphatic (C₈-C₁₈) primary or secondary linear or branched chainalcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide andgenerally having from 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.

Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono- or di-alkylalkanolamides. Examples include coco mono- or di-ethanolamide and cocomono-isopropanolamide.

Further nonionic surfactants which can be included in shampoocompositions of the invention are the alkyl polyglycosides (APGs).Typically, the APG is one which comprises an alkyl group connected(optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosylgroups. Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula:RO-(G)_(n)wherein R is a branched or straight chain alkyl group which may besaturated or unsaturated and G is a saccharide group.

R may represent a mean alkyl chain length of from about C₅ to about C₂₀.Preferably R represents a mean alkyl chain length of from about C₈ toabout C₁₂. Most preferably the value of R lies between about 9.5 andabout 10.5. G may be selected from C₅ or C₆ monosaccharide residues, andis preferably a glucoside. G may be selected from the group comprisingglucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof.Preferably G is glucose.

The degree of polymerisation, n, may have a value of from about 1 toabout 10 or more. Preferably, the value of n lies in the range of fromabout 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably the value of n lies in the rangeof from about 1.3 to about 1.5.

Suitable alkyl polyglycosides for use in the invention are commerciallyavailable and include for example those materials identified as: OramixNS10 ex Seppic; Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 ex Henkel.

Other sugar-derived nonionic surfactants which can be included inshampoo compositions of the invention include the C₁₀-C₁₈ N-alkyl(C₁-C₆) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as the C₁₂-C₁₈ N-methylglucamides, as described for example in WO 92 06154 and U.S. Pat. No. 5194 639, and the N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as C₁₀-C₁₈N-(3-methoxypropyl) glucamide.

The shampoo composition may also optionally include one or more cationicco-surfactants included in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10, morepreferably from 0.02 to 5, most preferably from 0.025 to 2 percent byweight of the composition.

The total amount of surfactant (including any co-surfactant, and/or anyemulsifier for the silicone component) in shampoo compositions of theinvention is generally from 0.1 to 50, preferably from 5 to 30, morepreferably from 10 to 25 percent by weight of the composition.

Cationic Deposition Polymer

A cationic deposition polymer is an optional ingredient in shampoosaccording to the invention, for enhancing conditioning performance ofthe compositions. By “deposition polymer” is meant an agent whichenhances deposition of the mixture droplets from the hair treatmentcomposition onto the intended site during use, i.e. the hair and/or thescalp.

The deposition polymer may be a homopolymer or-be formed from two ormore types of monomers. The molecular weight of the polymer willgenerally be between 5 000 and 10 000 000, typically at least 10 000 andpreferably in the range 100 000 to about 2 000 000 unified atomic massunits. The polymers will have cationic nitrogen containing groups suchas quaternary ammonium or protonated amino groups or a mixture thereof.

The cationic nitrogen-containing group will generally be present as asubstituent on a fraction of the total monomer units of the depositionpolymer. Thus when the polymer is not a homopolymer it can containspacer non-cationic monomer units. Such polymers are described in theCTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Directory, 3rd edition. The ratio of thecationic to non-cationic monomer units is selected to give a polymerhaving a cationic charge density in the required range.

Suitable cationic deposition polymers include, for example, copolymersof vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammoniumfunctionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as(meth)acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl (meth)acrylamides, alkyl(meth)acrylate, vinyl caprolactone and vinyl pyrrolidine. The alkyl anddialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C1-C7 alkyl groups, morepreferably C1-3 alkyl groups. Other suitable spacers include vinylesters, vinyl alcohol, maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethyleneglycol.

The cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary amines,depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. Ingeneral secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary, arepreferred.

Amine substituted vinyl monomers and amines can be polymerized in theamine form and then converted to ammonium by quaternization.

The cationic deposition polymers can comprise mixtures of monomer unitsderived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomerand/or compatible spacer monomers.

Suitable cationic deposition polymers include, for example:

-   -   copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and        1-vinyl-3-methyl-imidazolium salt (e.g. chloride salt), referred        to in the industry by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance        Association, (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-16. This material is        commercially available from BASF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany,        N.J., USA) under the LUVIQUAT tradename (e.g. LUVIQUAT FC 370);    -   copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl        methacrylate, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as        Polyquaternium-11. This material is available commercially from        Gaf Corporation (Wayne, N.J., USA) under the GAFQUAT tradename        (e.g., GAFQUAT 755N);    -   cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers        including, for example, dimethyldiallyammonium chloride        homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and        dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry        (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively;    -   mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo-and co-polymers        of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms,        (as described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,009,256);    -   cationic polyacrylamides(as described in WO95/22311).

Other cationic deposition polymers that can be used include cationicpolysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives,cationic starch derivatives, and cationic guar gum derivatives.Suitably, such cationic polysaccharide polymers have a charge density inthe range from 0.1 to 4 meq/g.

Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in compositions of theinvention include those of the formula:A-O—[R—N⁺(R¹)(R²) (R³)X⁻],wherein: A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch orcellulose anhydroglucose residual. R is an alkylene, oxyalkylene,polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof. R¹,R² and R³ independently represent alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl,alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18carbon atoms. The total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety(i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R¹, R² and R³) is preferably about 20or less, and X is an anionic counterion.

Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA)in their Polymer JR (trade mark) and LR (trade mark) series of polymers,as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammoniumsubstituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) asPolyquaternium 10. Another type of cationic cellulose includes thepolymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reactedwith lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in theindustry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available fromAmerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200.

Other suitable cationic polysaccharide polymers include quaternarynitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (e.g. as described in U.S. Pat. No.3,962,418), and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (e.g. asdescribed in U.S. Pat. No.3,958,581).

A particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that canbe used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guarhydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Commercially available fromRhone-Poulenc in their JAGUAR trademark series).

Examples are JAGUAR C13S, which has a low degree of substitution of thecationic groups and high viscosity. JAGUAR C15, having a moderate degreeof substitution and a low viscosity, JAGUAR C17 (high degree ofsubstitution, high viscosity), JAGUAR C16, which is a hydroxypropylatedcationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups aswell as cationic quaternary ammonium groups, and JAGUAR 162 which is ahigh transparency, medium viscosity guar having a low degree ofsubstitution.

Preferably the cationic deposition polymer is selected from cationiccellulose and cationic guar derivatives.

Particularly preferred deposition polymers are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15,JAGUAR C17 and JAGUAR C16 and JAGUAR C162.

Conditioner Compositions

Compositions in accordance with the invention may also be formulated asconditioners for the treatment of hair, typically applied to the hairafter shampooing and subsequent rinsing.

Conditioning Surfactant

Such a conditioner will comprise one or more conditioning surfactantswhich are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical applicationto the hair.

Suitable conditioning surfactants are selected from cationicsurfactants, used singly or in admixture. Examples include quaternaryammonium hydroxides or salts thereof, e.g. chlorides.

Suitable cationic surfactants for use in hair conditioners of theinvention include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride,behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride,tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride,octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride,hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammoniumchloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride,stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammoniumchloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammoniumchloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2 oleylammonium chlorideand the corresponding hydroxides thereof. Further suitable cationicsurfactants include those materials having the CTFA designationsQuaternium-5, Quaternium-31 and Quaternium-18. Mixtures of any of theforegoing materials may also be suitable. A particularly useful cationicsurfactant for use in hair conditioners of the invention iscetyltrimethylammonium chloride, available commercially, for example asGENAMIN CTAC, ex Hoechst Celanese.

In conditioners of the invention, the level of cationic surfactant ispreferably from 0.01 to 10, more preferably 0.05 to 5, most preferably0.1 to 2 percent by weight of the total composition.

Fatty Alcohol

Conditioners according to the invention advantageously incorporate afatty alcohol material. The combined use of fatty alcohol materials andcationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is believed to beespecially advantageous, because this leads to the formation of alamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.

Representative fatty alcohols comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, morepreferably 16 to 20. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetylalcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of thesematerials is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overallconditioning properties of compositions of the invention.

The level of fatty alcohol material in conditioners of the invention isconveniently from 0.01 to 10, preferably from 0.1 to 5 percent by weightof the total composition. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant tofatty alcohol is suitably from 10:1 to 1:10, preferably from 4:1 to 1:8,optimally from 1:1 to 1:4.

Mousses

Hair treatment compositions in accordance with the invention may alsotake the form of aerosol foams (mousses) in which case a propellant mustbe included in the composition. This agent is responsible for expellingthe other materials from the container and forming the hair moussecharacter.

The propellant gas can be any liquefiable gas conventionally used foraerosol containers. Examples of suitable propellants include dimethylether, propane, n-butane and isobutane, used singly or in admixture.

The amount of the propellant gases is governed by normal factors wellknown in the aerosol art. For hair mousses, the level of propellant isgenerally from 3 to 30, preferably from 5 to 15 percent by weight of thetotal composition.

Small quantities of surfactant ranging anywhere from 0.1 to 10,preferably from 0.1 to about 1, for example 0.3 percent by weight of thecomposition may be present in the hair mousse compositions of theinvention. The surfactant may be an anionic, nonionic or cationicemulsifier. Particularly preferred are nonionic emulsifiers which areformed from alkoxylation of hydrophobes such as fatty alcohols, fattyacids and phenols.

Optional Ingredients

Compositions of this invention may contain any other ingredient normallyused in hair treatment formulations. These other ingredients may includeviscosity modifiers, preservatives, colouring agents, polyols such asglycerine and polypropylene glycol, chelating agents such as EDTA,antioxidants, fragrances, antimicrobials and sunscreens. Each of theseingredients will be present in an amount effective to accomplish itspurpose. Generally these optional ingredients are included individuallyat a level of up to 5 percent by weight of the total composition.

Preferably, compositions of this invention also contain adjuvantssuitable for hair care. Generally such ingredients are includedindividually at a level of up to 2, preferably up to 1 percent by weightof the total composition.

Among suitable hair care adjuvants, are:

-   -   (i) natural hair root nutrients, such as amino acids and sugars.        Examples of suitable amino acids include arginine, cysteine,        glutamine, glutamic acid, isoleucine, leucine, methionine,        serine and valine, and/or precursors and derivatives thereof.        The amino acids may be added singly, in mixtures, or in the form        of peptides, e.g. di- and tripeptides. The amino acids may also        be added in the form of a protein hydrolysate, such as a keratin        or collagen hydrolysate. Suitable sugars are glucose, dextrose        and fructose. These may be added singly or in the form of, e.g.        fruit extracts. A particularly preferred combination of natural        hair root nutrients for inclusion in compositions of the        invention is isoleucine and glucose. A particularly preferred        amino acid nutrient is arginine.    -   (ii) hair fibre benefit agents. Examples are ceramides, for        moisturising the fibre and maintaining cuticle integrity.        Ceramides are available by extraction from natural sources, or        as synthetic ceramides and pseudoceramides. A preferred ceramide        is Ceramide II, ex Quest. Mixtures of ceramides may also be        suitable, such as Ceramides LS, ex Laboratoires Serobiologiques.        Mode of Use

The compositions of the invention are primarily intended for topicalapplication to the hair and/or scalp of a human subject to improve hairfibre surface properties such as smoothness, softness, manageability,cuticle integrity, and shine.

The invention will now be further illustrated by the following,non-limiting examples:

EXAMPLES

Shampoo formulations were made as shown in table 1. Examples 1and 2 arecomparative examples, whereas examples A and B are shampoo compositionsaccording to the invention. All figures are weight percent of thecompositions. TABLE 1 Ingredient Trade Name Supplier Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. BEx. A Sodium laureth Empicol Albright & 16 16 16 16 (2 EO) sulphateESB70 Wilson Coco Tegobetaine Goldschmidt 2 2 2 2 amidopropyl CK betaineGuar Jaguar C13S Rhone 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Hydroxypropyl Poulenc TrimoniumChloride Mineral Oil Mineral oil Fuchs 1 — — — M40 Lubricants Aminosilicone DC8220 Dow — 1 — — Corning Pre-emulsified — — — — 1 — blend of0.5 Mineral oil + 0.5 Amino silicone DC8466 Pre-emulsified — — — — — 1blend of 0.5 Mineral oil + 0.5 Amino silicone DC8220 Water — — to to toto 100 100 100 100

The aminosilicone DC8220 has a viscosity of 150 mm²s⁻¹ at 25° C. and aweight pexcent amnine functionality of 2.0%. The aminosilicone DC8466has a viscosity of 15000 mm²s⁻¹ at 25° C. and a weight percent aminefunctionality of 2.3%.

Mineral oil M4 has a Viscosity of 4.3 mm²s⁻¹ at 25° C.

Test Method

Hair switches were oiled with commercially available oil, which is ablend of 60t coconut oil and 40% mineral oil (M40). 0.5 ml of oil wasapplied on to the switches and the switches were allowed to stay for anhour. 0.35 ml of test formulation was measured and applied onto theoiled hair switches, followed by washing and rinsing in accordance withnormal procedures. The shampooing and rinsing procedure was repeated forsecond application and then the switches were allowed to dry at normaltemperature (20-25° C.). On drying, the switches were assessed bypanellists with previous experience in assessing hair switchcharacteristics.

Evaluation Results

The rating scores are shown in the Tables below for the attributesdescribed. Higher scores indicate better results. TABLE 2 Attribute Ex.1 Ex. A Ease of Comb 0.28 0.53 Clean feel 0.29 0.38

TABLE 3 Attribute Ex. 2 Ex. A Ease of Comb 0.19 0.53 Clean feel 0.330.38

TABLE 4 Attribute Ex. B Ex. A Ease of Comb 0.25 0.3 Clean feel 0.25 0.3

The results show that the example according to the invention (A)delivers improved conditioning relative to the comparative examples land2 without affecting the clean feel.

Table 4 shows that example A, with a lower viscosity functionalisedsilicone, is preferred over example B with a higher viscosityfunctionalised silicone.

1. A composition for hair treatment comprising discrete dropletscharacterised in that the droplets, within the same droplet compriseboth; (i) a functionalised silicone selected from amino-, carboxy-,betaine-, quaternary ammonium-, carbohydrate-, hydroxy- andalkoxy-substituted silicones; and, (ii) a hydrocarbon oil; wherein thediscrete droplets comprise at least 5% by weight of functionalisedsilicone and at least 5% by weight of hydrocarbon oil expressed as apercentage of the weight of the droplets.
 2. A composition according toclaim 1 comprising at least 0.25% by weight of the discrete droplets. 3.A composition according to claim 1, wherein the functionalised siliconeis an amino-functionalised silicone.
 4. A composition according to claim3, wherein the amino-functionalised silicone has a weight percentageamine functionality from 0.3% to 8%, preferably from 0.5% to 4%.
 5. Acomposition according to claim 1 wherein the hydrocarbon oil has akinematic viscosity of less than 500 mm²s⁻¹ at 25° C.
 6. A compositionaccording to claim 1 wherein the kinematic viscosity of thefunctionalised silicone is less than 1900 mm²s⁻¹ at 25° C.
 7. Acomposition according to claim 1 wherein the mean droplet diameter(D_(3,2)) of the discrete droplets is from 0.05 to 25 micrometres.
 8. Acomposition according to claim 1 wherein the discrete droplets furthercomprise an emulsifying agent.
 9. A composition according to claim 8wherein the emulsifying agent comprises a nonionic surfactant.
 10. Acomposition according to claim 1 wherein the discrete droplets are addedto the composition as a non-aqueous phase of a pre-formed aqueousemulsion.
 11. A composition according to claim 1 which is a shampoocomposition comprising at least one cleansing surfactant selected fromanionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants andmixtures thereof.
 12. A composition according to claim 1, which is aconditioner composition comprising at least one conditioning surfactantand a fatty alcohol and/or an alkoxylated fatty alcohol.
 13. A methodfor incorporating discrete droplets comprising both a functionalisedsilicone selected from amino-, carboxy-, betaine-, quaternary ammonium-,carbohydrate-, hydroxy- and alkoxy-substituted silicones; and ahydrocarbon oil in the same droplets, into a hair treatment composition,comprising the steps of; (i) forming an intimate, non-aqueous blendcomprising the functionalised silicone and the hydrocarbon oil; (ii)preparing an aqueous emulsion comprising droplets comprising both afunctionalised silicone and a hydrocarbon oil in the same droplets and(iii) mixing said aqueous emulsion with the hair treatment composition.14. A method according to claim 13 wherein the aqueous emulsion furthercomprises an emulsifying agent.
 15. The use of a hair treatmentcomposition according to claim 1 for the conditioning of hair.
 16. Theuse of a hair treatment composition according to claim 1 as aconditioning shampoo.